![2 stroke tuning forum 2 stroke tuning forum](https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2018/12/17/310932/s600_46479519_2264508920290745_3620086122568220672_n.jpg)
![2 stroke tuning forum 2 stroke tuning forum](http://www.cycleplayground.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/20180215_195840.jpg)
The extra RPM won't hurt the engine and you will get better power to speed ratio. Try riding around at one gear lower everywhere you go. What sort of speeds do you ride at? What gears do you use. Nothing much down low and then when the rpm matches the characteristics of the exhaust, yipee and away you go. The exhaust is designed along with the porting to give a certain power curve and the curves are usually quite narrow. The exhaust is a crucial part of a two stroke engines power curve. What you are describing here is typical two-stroke characteristics. You will not get the same characteristics out of a 120 2-T that you will out of a 110 4 stroke. The bike feels like there's almost a flat spot from low engine speeds, and then just comes on almost too strong when you rev it up. I have no use for the high-end power wheelie craziness (and yes, the 120cc does feel scary on this rather small bike). What I want is as much low-end power as possible in a two stroke, for a solid, pleasant driving experience. I think I sort of shot myself in the foot because I kept taking it back to my mechanic complaining of the bikes lack of power (before it just didn't seem to have much power at any engine speed), and he switched the big sprocket from a 35 to I think he said a 37 tooth without even asking me (I have to admit the bike felt higher-geared than my other two strokes), and previously he did something to it which made it run a bit differently at start-up and idle as well as during driving. The bike is really fun, but yeah, it just feels dangerous to me with that all-or-nothing power, and its so different from my other Tiara which is a better all-rounder. maybe 1500 if it meant getting an all new carb or something like that. I should have clarified I don't want to spend more than a thousand baht or so on the fix. If your having wheelie problems (is that really a problem ?) this may not be the best solution and may want to go up one tooth instead of down. If you want a quick fix go down one front tooth, the bottom end will be stronger and blend better into midrange. The judder springs are also commonly removed for a better bite off the line, if the bike wobbles and lurches on take off, they've been taken out. The pulser sensor may have also been filed to advance the ignition, this is a cheap fix at around 150 baht installed, its located by the magnetic flywheel. Alternatively the spacer can also be placed at the bottom of the cylinder instead. The spacer needs to be there so the piston doesnt smack the head. I use to run offset crankpins 10 years ago when i raced, if you look at the head gasket, if there is an aluminium spacer about 2-3mm thick, more than likely theres an offset crankpin installed. Where after it winds up it'll take off like a scorched cat. Bigger the carb more mid-top end you'll have and less bottom end, especially in the case of a two stroke. The original should be 24-26mm, these bikes usually get 28mm carbs installed and sometimes bored out to 30mm. If you run it back to the pits the plug reading is worthless.Like Karlos said, its probably a bigger than standard carb. Plug readings and piston inspection are mandatory.
![2 stroke tuning forum 2 stroke tuning forum](http://www.hpracedevelopment.com/uploads/4/6/5/3/46537493/6310487_orig.jpg)
If you end up (rare) in that condition you will melt it before you figure it out. The head temperature shows a more stable reading.Īt some point the EGT will hit maximum and then drop as you continue to lean it out. You are approaching the melting point of the piston past that. You can melt it before the reading stabilizes.ġ100 on EGT is as much as you want to run. The easy way is to lean it out until it melts then back off a little.Īll sensors are relatively slow to react. Running a two stroke wide open is an easier tuning challenge then a roadracing setup. The AFR sensor won't last long enough to get a reading. The further you get away from the port the cooler the temperatures.